The robust amatriciana sauce that so beautifully complements the baked fish in this dish is never made with fresh tomatoes; using canned tomatoes greatly.
2 tablespoons good olive oil. 1 cup chopped yellow onions. 2 ounces pancetta or bacon, diced. 1 tablespoon chopped garlic. 1 (28-ounce) can plum tomatoes.
1 teaspoon coarse ground black pepper. 1 1/2 pounds striped bass. 6 small cubes pancetta (about 1 ounce). 1 tablespoon superfine or fine granulated sugar.